We were reminded in 2008 that Mother Nature can be a fickle dance partner.  We had to learn a few new quick-steps, adjusting to unexpected moves in the early days of the vintage, and a minor scare in September. 

The year started with a cool spring, delaying development and setting things behind a week or more.  By mid-summer we had warmed to typical levels, with a couple heat spikes, and were back on schedule.   Overall it was a cooler vintage, but as we approached the end of August a strong system moved into place: warm days, followed by night temperatures 35-40° F lower than the daytime highs: enough sun and heat to build sugar and flavor but cooler temperatures at night to preserve structure. We picked our first fruit September 15, just 2 days behind 2007. 

However, the alarms sounded the night of Monday September 22, as temperatures hit 35° F, and dipped dangerously close to freezing just before sunrise Tuesday.  Fortunately temperatures weren’t low enough to damage vines or fruit, but many of us slept poorly Monday night.  The weather improved and held throughout harvest; Washington seldom disappoints and 2008 turned out classic.

2008 Besoleil This is the deepest colored and densest Grenache-based wine we have made, very much in the style of our classic southern Rhone inspiration.  We dropped yields on a couple blocks of Grenache this vintage to about ½ ton/acre.  The low yields gave us some heady, deep and powerful blending material.  On its own it seemed unbalanced, but combined with our other Grenache blocks and a little Syrah and Mourvedre, 9% each, we preserved the fruit intensity of Grenache but achieved a fine equilibrium on the palate.  Bésoleil 2008 is very dark ruby, with a dense core and a hint of magenta on the edge.  It sports an expressive aroma of sweet, penetrating black raspberry and strawberry, with layers of cream, lavender, thyme and licorice.  It has a fuller palate impression than past years, with a bit more grip to help it age in the cellar.      Serve cool, 58-62°F.  Best from 2011 thru 2016.

2008 Syrah La Serenne The Syrah berries for this wine were 15% smaller than in 2007, an early clue that the final wine would be rich and concentrated.  With ten years of data/experience farming these same rows at the Boushey Vineyard we were able to focus in the cellar to optimize color, density and depth from the smaller berries.  And the wine shows it in its black purple color, all the way to the edge, penetrating aroma and depth of favor.  And like the previous years, La Serenne shows the same sauvage (wild) character that Syrah from a cooler site can take on: blackberry and black cherry are accented by anise, rocks, spice and leather.  It’s dense and yet supple, with the usual La Serenne seamlessness, and has a lift that keeps it bright and sailing through to the finish.     Serve cool, 60-62°F.  Best from 2012 through 2018.

2008 Syrah La Cote Rousse Red Mountain vineyards once again put their signature on this wine.  Despite the blend of four clones from two vineyards, 2008 La Côte Rousse ultimately is strongly influenced by its origin.  The firm palate grip, slower evolution of tannins and great breadth ultimately distinguishes this from our other Syrahs, and those characteristics are because of its Red Mountain origins.   This year’s blend is nearly equal portions of the two vineyards so it meshes the sinewy complexity of Ciel du Cheval with the sweet pure fruit of Kiona Vineyards.  The result is a black red core with a deep edge.  Blackberry, earth and licorice dominate the aroma, while a penetrating meaty, blue/black fruit note dominates the flavor.  It has the typical La Côte Rousse dimension and with its additional tannin should cellar for years to come.   Serve cool, 60-62°F.  Best from 2012 through 2018.

2008 Syrah La Cote Patriarche So many factors combine to make this wine extraordinary.  The old block Syrah (oldest in Washington), the steep slope due south to uninhibited sunshine, the pre-Missoula Flood sandstone soil, and the precision and care in the vineyard by the Sauer Family at Red Willow Vineyard come together to form a unique Syrah expression.    With 2008 we realized we could treat the small, thick skinned berries more aggressively in the cellar, pulling out even more “stuffing” than we did with 2007.  This is the blackest and most opaque of our Syrahs in 2008.  It’s thick and broad, a massive combination of blackberry, blueberry, earth, meat and leather aromas.  Same on the palate, yet with a plump, mouth-filling suppleness.  This is the one to cellar long term, if you can keep your hands off it.     Serve cool, 60-62°F.  Best from 2012 through ???